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Tuesday 3 May 2016

How to plan a leh tour?

After crossing Sarchu before Taglangla pass, my time and I strike for a pose.

I have been there a few times on motorcycle and by air. But nothing like a road trip. My gang of brats has been a really cool one and I really appreciate their efforts, help, punctuality and skills.
The route is heavenly provided that you go safe. Blind curves and slippery roads could prove fatal.
First of all, I would like to inform you that in 8 days, you can only go to Leh city and come via Kashmir. You will not be able to go to Pangong Tso lake (which was shown in Three idiots movie). You will only reach Leh and have to come back via Srinagar route the next day itself.
Your journey will be tiring enough. Do not sleep. If you fall asleep, take some tea or red bull. But do not sleep while riding/driving in those treacherous mountains.
If you go via Manali route, which is known to be a tough one, you need to make sure that your motorcycles/cars are in good condition. You should have basic knowledge about your machines, like tyre changing, wire changing, and something regarding starting the motorcycle if you have Enfield motorcycles.
I have seen many people without any help struggling with their bikes and nobody for help.

Always start your journey early morning. I would recommend 5 or 6 am. So that you can reach your destination on time and can rest there for the day.

Tour plan:
Day 1-Go to Manali (around 310 kms from Chandigarh, do not stop unnecessarily). Stay at any hotel.

Day 2-Manali to Keylong (around 126 kms)
You will cross Rohtang Pass. This is actually a very dangerous pass. It actually means the pass of dead. Do not drive during rain. It is very risky in those mountains. Drive slowly, you will reach on time. You might find no roads, deep potholes on the way. You can rent hotel rooms in Keylong. It is a very beautiful place.

Day 3- Keylong to Sarchu (around 117 kms). Again, tough terrain. Sarchu has temporary hutments available for tourists. Food no problem, you can eat there. But that place is at around 15000 feet high. Most of you will get really terrible headaches, dizziness and probably you will feel like hell. I suggest you should drink plenty of water, eat dal, do not take much solid food. Liquid food is easy to digest and it will give you good oxygen, especially water.
DO not IGNORE THESE INSTRUCTIONS OR ELSE YOU WILL REALLY SUFFER THERE WITH NO HELP.

Day 4-Sarchu to Leh (around 240 kms). You will cross the second highest motorable road in the world known as Taglangla pass. Mostly, the roads are not good, ride slow. This is a really long distance in those mountains. You should start as early as possible. I recommend around 4 or 5 am. You will reach late in the evening. Stay at any hotel.

Day 5-Leh to Kargil (around 210 kms) Again, start early as much as possible. Good roads, now, you will see many habitations on the way unlike Keylong to Leh. You can stay at any hotel in Kargil after crossing a bridge and entering into the main city.

Day 6-Kargil to Srinagar (almost 201 kms) Good views, good people. (stay at any hotel in Srinagar)

Day 7- Srinagar to Jammu (more than 325 kms) Somewhat risky if you ride fast. Start early, reach Jammu in the evening, stay at any hotel. Now, after your half journey, you will not see any beauty after Patnitop.

Day 8-Jammu to Chandigarh (more than 300 kms)
NOTE: If you do not go there as planned, you will not be able to enjoy your expedition.
If you want to cut-short this journey in 7 days, you have to cover Manali to Sarchu in one day (230kms). If you cover this dance in one day, you can enjoy one full day in Leh city.

If you are planning for more than 8 days, I would recommend you to plan the following tours for each extra day:
1. Pangong Tso. This lake which is around 120 kms from Leh city and you will cross Chang La pass which is the third highest motorable road in the world. But you will have to start early, reach there, enjoy your day there and you will be able to return back to the city in the daylight.
2. Nubra Valley: At least 2 days. You will have to cross Khardung La pass which is the highest motorable road in the world (18,380 feet). Remember, do not spend much time there. Due to high altitude, oxygen levels are really less. You will also see an Army-run cafeteria and a small shop for souvenirs. Nubra valley is very beautiful and I loved its air. It is around 180 kms from the Leh city. You can find sand dunes, double-hump camels and snow all together. You can put up at any guest house or hotel for a night and then come back to Leh city the next day.

3. Leh city tour: You can visit an army museum, beautiful monasteries, including Shanti Gompa, Thicksey Gompa, and yes, do not miss city market tour.

If you want to stay more, you can enjoy the beauty, ambiance of old Leh city. I loved it...
People in Leh are very innocent and crime-rate is almost nil. Only outsiders do petty stealing.

Petrol pumps:
Chandigarh (available)
Manali (available)
Keylong (16 kms back)
Keylong to Leh (NO PETROL PUMP). You should carry your petrol in plastic cans.
Leh (available)
Kargil (available)
Srinagar (available)
Jammu (available)


Essentials you should carry
-Basic medicines for headache, vomiting, dysentery
-Get new tyres
-Change brake pads
-Get new clutch wire (keep an extra also)
-Carry cans for petrol
-Strong thing ropes to tie your luggage
-Helmets
-Woolen caps
-Gloves (You cannot go their without gloves on motorcycles). If you suffer from frost bite, your hands can be amputated (cut off)
-All vehicle documents
-Rain coats
-Identity cards
-Cameras
-Chargers
-Jackets
-Water bottles
-Eatables
Baralachala. Covered with snow till June. You will cross it from during your journey from Keylong to Sarchu.

Hospitality at a guest house in Nubra valley. You have to cross Khardungla and travel around 180 kms from Leh city.

My motorcycle poses past Kargil city.

Pangong Tso lake, a salt-water body, has delightful looks.

On the way to Pangong Tso, at Chang La (third highest motorable road in the world).

At Chang La pass with a fellow biker
On the way to Sarchu before gataloops.


A small lake, frozen till June on the way to Sarchu.
Nasser Gorsi